A long weekend was coming and, therefore, it was time to get to know a new place in Portugal. I looked for a place relatively close to home (Porto) but where I could also rest a bit. So that’s why I decided to visit Santa Comba Dão and Penacova.

Rarely does going on holiday mean a huge break for me. I am the type of person that always wants to see and explore everything. However, this time was different.

I headed towards Santa Comba Dão for a very relaxed weekend and, besides that, I also got the chance to explore the main points of interest in the region. Besides Santa Comba Dão, I also took the chance to visit Penacova.

Located about 1h30 drive from Porto and 2h30 from Lisbon, both Santa Comba Dão and Penacova are two excellent options for a weekend getaway.

This way, I am writing to you to tell you all about the places you can visit in this region. At the end of the blog post, you will also find a suggestion for a special accommodation.

The Beira region is known for its very hot days in summer and cold winters (even though not that extremely harsh). Thereby, it is possible to visit the region at any time of the year! 

However, if you want to enjoy some of the river beaches in the region (trust me, you’ll regret it if you don’t), it’s best to plan your visit during warmer times of the year. The ideal time to visit Santa Comba Dão or Penacova is between the months of May and September.

As I mentioned before, I took advantage of this visit to rest and take things easy. So, I left Porto on Thursday early afternoon and explored the region until Saturday (Sunday was used for exploring other places not that close by 😊). Important to mention that I also spent Friday working, so I only had free time at the end of the day. So, two days are perfect enough to visit Santa Comba Dão and Penacova.

To be honest, the truth is that in half an hour we covered (on foot) the main points of interest of Santa Comba Dão. However, it would be foolish to do it this way. This city deserves a longer visit, appreciating each of its nooks and crannies.

We started our visit at the Mother Church of Santa Comba Dão. Dedicated to Santa Maria Maior, the church presents a baroque style façade and its construction dates back to 1755. Next to the church, you can also see three tile panels dedicated to António Salazar. In fact, Santa Comba Dão is the birthplace of the former Portuguese statesman (former dictator) – António de Oliveira Salazar.

We continued towards Outeirinho Viewpoint, which offers a beautiful panoramic view over the Dão River. On days when the river flow is lower, we can even observe an old bridge that has existed there since the 17th century. Additionally, at the viewpoint itself, we can also contemplate a small set of tiles created by a local artist.

💡 EXTRA TIP: Although not as interesting, another viewpoint in Santa Comba Dão is Pedra Talhada Viewpoint from where we can see the centre of Santa Comba Dão.

Going back in the direction of Alves Mateus Square, we find Casa dos Arcos (Arches House), which currently houses Alves Mateus Municipal Library. Built in the 17th century, this former manor house of the barons of Santa Comba was once home to various kings and queens.

The next point on this itinerary is Mouzinho de Albuquerque Street. On this pedestrian street, it is possible to find some local commerce, as well as some imposing houses and shops totally abandoned. Walking down this street is almost like travelling back in time, and it made me wonder how everything there used to be.

Somewhere along the street, we also find Misericórdia Church. Dating from the 18th century, the style is mostly baroque.

Rossio Square is the next stop! This is one of the most emblematic places in the city, where we can find the typical houses of the region (granite is clearly dominant here). Many of the houses have even been restored and now serve as local accommodation under the project  Casas com Estória (more details at the end of the blog post).

However, it is in Town Square (Largo do Município) that life happens 😉 It is here that the locals meet at the end of the day to catch up and enjoy Santa Comba Dão. In this place, the Town Hall building, the 1895 Fountain and the old 19th-century Pelourinho stand out.

But it is also here that one of my favourite parts of the city is located – Hortas Creek (Ribeira das Hortas).

Right next to the Fountain, there is a small wooden walkway that takes us along Hortas creek. The walkway is only a few metres long, but it is decorated with several flower pots that give it a special charm.

Along the walkway, there are also one or two benches where you can enjoy the views more calmly.

💡 EXTRA TIP: Strolling around Hortas Creek is especially romantic during sunset, when we see the flowers reflected in the water.

If the weather is inviting, why not take the opportunity to take a dip at Senhora da Ribeira River Beach? Located just 15 minutes by car from Santa Comba Dão, this beach is the ideal destination for a more refreshing day. Furthermore, it is very well-equipped with three cafés/restaurants – all you have to do is choose your favourite.

A short drive away (about 30 minutes) from Santa Comba Dão there is Penacova. The motto of the municipality of Penacova is “it looks good” (“tem bom ar”) and we easily understand why.

Quite honestly, Penacova’s town centre has little to visit and, in my opinion, a visit is only worth due to the Emydgio da Silva Viewpoint, inaugurated in 1908. From this viewpoint, you will find privileged views over the Mondego River! From here you can also observe our next stop – Reconquinho River Beach.

This river beach has some parking spaces available and has a restaurant/bar where you can enjoy a light meal.

The beach is still quite long and, if you are going to bathe, I recommend the use of proper shoes as the bottom of the river is full of pebbles.

💡 EXTRA TIP: On the car journey between Santa Comba Dão and Penacova, I suggest a stop at Mondego Bookshelf (Livraria do Mondego). This is a rock formation carved over more than 400 million years and owes its name to its resemblance to the layout of books on a bookshelf.

From Reconquinho’s river beach, my suggestion is to head to one of my favourite places in this small trip – Gavinhos Windmills. There are 14 windmills and from this place, we have one of the best views over Serra do Buçaco and Serra da Aveleira.

And because there are many places with windmills in this region, we also visited Serra da Atalhada Windmills. A bit different from the previous windmills, here we found a larger number of windmills.

You shouldn’t also miss a visit to the amazing Vimieiro River Beach. The beach has a relatively small car park and a restaurant nearby. The grassed space on the beach is relatively small, but a visit here is really worth it, as it is certainly one of the most beautiful river beaches in Portugal.

This trip was one of those cases in which the choice of accommodation defined the choice of destination. I chose to stay at Casas com Estória. This project began by restoring three typical houses in Santa Comba Dão, located in Rossio Square. Later, they also restored an old grocery store previously owned by two brothers, located in Town Square.

Having stayed in the renovated shop (Sr. Costa Store), I am almost 100% sure that you can hardly find better accommodation in the region. The location is very central, allowing you to explore the city of Santa Comba Dão on foot. In addition, the conditions of the building are spectacular, from the common area to the rooms.

In Casas com Estória we easily realize that details matter… from the pampered decoration of the rooms to the breakfast (which, although simple, was simply delicious)!

• [Tondela] 3 Pipos (€€): Clearly the best restaurant I have visited in the region. Exceptional food at very reasonable prices, very pleasant space and superb service. I tried the pork cheeks and as a starter some warm and delicious “pataniscas”.
• [Travanca do Mondego] Hotel Rural Quinta da Conchada (€€): Nice place (terrace with an interesting view for warmer days) and tasty food at relatively affordable prices.
• [Carregal do Sal] Quinta de Cabriz (€€€): Interesting space, but frankly the quantity-price relationship was just not right. However, the dessert was divine (a peachy crème brûlée).
• [Santa Comba Dão] Cova Funda (€): Very traditional and simple restaurant. The prices are very reasonable and the portions are generous.

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